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Private Runways: Nigerian Fashion Labels Navigate Anti-LGBTQ Challenges

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Since its inception in 2011, Lagos Fashion Week has emerged as a biannual highlight on the African fashion calendar, drawing the continent’s leading design houses, prominent sponsors, and an international audience.

In Nigeria, a nation marked by strong religious and conservative values where LGBTQ individuals face severe levels of discrimination and violence, Lagos Fashion Week has stood out as an inclusive platform. It provides space for marginalized communities and innovative brands to gain visibility and amplify their voices. 

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For over a decade, Orange Culture, a Nigerian label, has challenged norms through provocative runway shows featuring male models in skirts, makeup, and unconventional attire, sparking conversations on gender fluidity in fashion. Similarly, Maxivive, a Lagos-based fashion entity rooted in nonconformity, has garnered attention with its bold, gender-bending collections that explore themes of sexuality and identity season after season.

In recent years, LGBTQ individuals in Nigeria have observed a shift in Lagos Fashion Week’s once-welcoming environment, as the country experiences rising hostility towards non-binary and gay communities.

In 2014, Nigeria, Africa’s most populous nation, implemented the SSMPA law (Same Sex Marriage Prohibition Act), widely criticized internationally for outlawing gay marriage, same-sex relationships, and activities of LGBTQ rights groups. Violators face penalties including lengthy prison sentences of up to 14 years. Activists argue that these attitudes are increasingly influencing even traditionally progressive sectors like the fashion industry in Nigeria.

Kayode Timileyin, founder of Queercity Media and Production, a prominent non-governmental organization advocating for queer rights in Nigeria, also serves as the festival manager for Lagos Pride. According to Timileyin, there is a longstanding pattern of anti-LGBTQ sentiment within Nigeria’s fashion week scene.

In the Spring-Summer 2022 showcase, the late Fola Francis made history as the first transgender model to grace Lagos Fashion Week’s catwalk, appearing for labels Cute-Saint and Fruché. Her participation marked a significant moment for African fashion and the LGBTQ community, although it also stirred controversy. Francis spoke out about facing backlash and noted the absence of her runway images on Lagos Fashion Week’s social media and press releases, prompting criticism. In a subsequent interview with LGBTQ magazine Xtra, she expressed disappointment, saying, ‘I heard Lagos Fashion Week decided not to post any of my pictures or include them in press releases. Why am I not surprised?’ 

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In another incident, Maxivive, known for its avant-garde approach, had its Spring-Summer 2023 show abruptly canceled by organizers shortly before its scheduled date. While founder Papa Oyeyemi declined to comment on the cancellation to CNN, industry discussions suggested the decision was linked to the show being perceived as ‘too gay’ by event organizers.

Discovering the Liberty of Authenticity

Amid mounting societal and legal pressures regarding gender, sexuality, and inclusivity in Nigeria, more fashion labels are opting to showcase their collections through independent, private presentations held off the traditional fashion schedule. This allows them greater freedom to embody their brand ethos away from the spotlight of Lagos Fashion Week.

From brands like Tzar Studios, known for its visually daring contemporary menswear inspired by the metrosexual ethos, to Weiz Dhurm Franklyn’s ready-to-wear collections, these exclusive “invite-only” presentations are organized by designers who carefully select undisclosed venues and invite trusted journalists, influencers, celebrities, and fashion insiders to attend.

Udiahgebi, renowned for its androgynous fashion, has found success in organizing private shows. According to brand creative director Chiemerie Udiahgebi Ugwoke, the house made waves with its debut runway in 2022 by featuring five non-binary models, receiving overwhelmingly positive feedback.

The response following my show was surprisingly positive,” they shared via email. “Considering the societal norms, I anticipated more negative reviews due to the gender-neutral designs featuring transparent fabrics, animal prints, and daring cut-outs.

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Aso Nigeria, known for its androgynous and inclusive designs, featured Fola Francis in both a private runway show in December 2022 and a fashion campaign launched in February 2024. Founder Aanuoluwa Ajide-Daniels emphasized that including a trans woman aligns with the core values of the brand, which will continue to prioritize such representation.

“Fashion, to me, is an art that sparks dialogue and challenges perceptions,” commented Kayode Timileyin. “However, in recent years, Lagos Fashion Week has increasingly stifled and restricted these conversations.” While advocating for an inclusive future in African fashion cannot be confined to private settings alone, many designers currently view it as the only essential means to freely express their artistic visions.

Sahil Sachdeva is the CEO of Level Up Holdings, a Personal Branding agency. He creates elite personal brands through social media growth and top tier press features.

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Mother Takes a Stand Against Miss America and Miss World Pageant Rules Banning Moms

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In a bold move to challenge long-standing norms, Danielle Hazel, a New York woman, has taken on the Miss America and Miss World pageants over their controversial rules that disqualify mothers from participating. Hazel, who had always dreamed of competing in these prestigious pageants, was disheartened to find that her eligibility was stripped away simply because she had a child at the age of 19. Speaking at the Women’s Rights Pioneers Monument in Central Park, Hazel shared her frustration and highlighted her young son’s reaction to the situation.

Hazel recounted that when she explained the pageant rules to her six-year-old son, Zion, his response was immediate and straightforward. “He said that these rules are stupid,” Hazel noted, emphasising her son’s instinctive sense of fairness. This poignant moment underscores not only Hazel’s personal disappointment but also a broader critique of the rules that exclude mothers based on outdated stereotypes.

Her legal advocate, Gloria Allred, has filed a complaint with the city’s Commission on Human Rights, seeking to overturn these discriminatory rules. Allred’s complaint argues that the exclusion of mothers from these pageants represents a significant business and cultural injustice. According to Allred, the rules are grounded in antiquated stereotypes that falsely assume women cannot embody both the qualities of a mother and the attributes celebrated in beauty pageants—such as beauty, poise, talent, and philanthropy.

Allred, a renowned civil rights attorney, has a track record of challenging similar discriminatory practices. Notably, she previously succeeded in overturning a similar rule in California that barred mothers from competing in the Miss California pageant, which is affiliated with Miss Universe and Miss USA. This victory led to the elimination of a 70-year-old rule that was imposed globally across affiliated pageants. Allred argues that parenthood should not be a barrier to participating in such opportunities and that societal stigmas against parents must be dismantled.

The Miss America and Miss World organisations have yet to respond to enquiries about Hazel’s case, and the Commission on Human Rights has declined to comment on ongoing investigations. However, the debate over these rules has gained additional momentum with the involvement of Veronika Didusenko, Miss Ukraine 2018. Didusenko’s title was revoked by Miss World upon discovering she had a child, leading her to become a prominent advocate for ending bans on mothers in beauty pageants. Despite losing her legal challenge in Ukraine, Didusenko is now pursuing relief through the European Court of Human Rights, demonstrating the international dimension of this issue.

The collective efforts of Hazel, Allred, and Didusenko highlight a growing movement against exclusionary practices in beauty pageants. They argue that being a parent should not disqualify individuals from pursuing their dreams or participating in public opportunities. This case not only seeks to challenge and change pageant rules but also aims to foster a more inclusive and

equitable society where personal choices and family status do not dictate professional opportunities.

As the debate unfolds, the broader implications for beauty pageants and similar institutions will be closely watched, potentially setting a precedent for how such organisations address issues of discrimination and inclusivity in the future.

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Taylor Swift Dons Edgy Tartan at VMAs, Breaking Away from Her Signature Style

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At the MTV Video Music Awards on Wednesday, Taylor Swift stood out by embracing ’90s fashion with a bold twist, donning a chic taffeta bustier and skirt by Dior. Her outfit featured a striking yellow tartan, a nod to one of the decade’s most memorable styles: the preppy Dolce & Gabbana blazer and pleated skirt famously worn by Cher Horowitz, the character portrayed by Alicia Silverstone in the 1995 film “Clueless.” This sartorial reference to the iconic film reflects a broader trend, as Dior has previously paid homage to the classic look. In 2022, Natalie Portman sported a similar ensemble for a Halloween event, and Blackpink’s Jisoo showcased a version during the Dior Fall-Winter 2022 show in Paris.

However, Swift’s interpretation of the tartan trend took on a distinctly edgy flair. Her outfit, straight from Dior’s 2025 Cruise collection, was marked by punk-inspired accents such as black buckles, a collar, and a zipped fitted front. The collection, which drew inspiration from Scottish heritage and Mary, Queen of Scots, featured gothic plaid designs, setting a dramatic tone that contrasted with the traditional preppy aesthetic. Swift’s ensemble was completed with velvet shorts, thigh-high boots, and gloves, embodying a more rebellious spirit compared to the classic preppy look of the ’90s.

This VMAs appearance represented a significant departure from Swift’s usual red carpet style. Known for her penchant for sparkling crystals, diamonds, sequins, and classic glamorous gowns, Swift’s choice to embrace a more edgy, punk-inspired look was unexpected. Her dramatic black smoky eye makeup replaced her usual signature red lipstick, further emphasizing the shift in her style for this event.

Swift’s fashion statement at the VMAs was complemented by her success at the ceremony, where she won seven “Moon Person” trophies, including the prestigious Video of the Year award for her collaboration with Post Malone on the song “Fortnight.” The pair also received the Best Collaboration award. During her acceptance speech for Best Collaboration, Swift took a moment to reflect on the September 11 attacks, honoring the memory of those who lost their lives and acknowledging the tragedy’s lasting impact.

Swift’s VMAs appearance was particularly notable given that it followed her endorsement of Kamala Harris for the US presidency, a political move that garnered widespread media attention. Her choice of attire and her public endorsements underscore her evolving role as a cultural and political influencer, further cementing her position as a dynamic and multifaceted figure in the entertainment industry.

 

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Angelina Jolie Moved to Tears by Standing Ovation for ‘Maria’ at Venice Film Festival

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At the Venice Film Festival premiere of her upcoming film “Maria,” the Oscar-winner was met with a roaring and reportedly lengthy ovation following the screening, leaving her visibly emotional. Jolie, who stars as Maria Callas, was seen wiping tears from her face as she was escorted down a staircase amid the thunderous applause, as shown in video footage. The film’s director, Pablo Larraín, and cast members Alba Rohrwacher and Pierfrancesco Favino were also present in the theater on Thursday.

“Maria” is a biopic that portrays Jolie as Maria Callas, one of the world’s greatest opera singers. Set in 1970s Paris, the film delves into Callas’ tragic and tumultuous life, focusing on her final days. The movie has already generated significant Oscars buzz following its Venice premiere.

Larraín, known for directing “Jackie” in 2016 with Natalie Portman as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and “Spencer” in 2021 with Kristen Stewart as Princess Diana—both of whom received Academy Award nominations—brings his directorial prowess to this new project.

At a press conference earlier on Thursday, Jolie spoke about her connection to Callas, noting that she could relate to the opera singer in surprising ways. She mentioned sharing Callas’ vulnerability, particularly the aspect of her character that was extremely soft and emotionally open, despite the world’s harshness.

On Wednesday, Netflix announced that “Maria” will be available to stream on their platform at a later date.

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Naomi Osaka’s Bold US Open Entrance Reclaims Girl Power with Subversive Style

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For her highly anticipated return to the US Open, Naomi Osaka is bringing a touch of magic to the court with her new looks, which are anything but conventional. The 26-year-old tennis star’s outfits might come as a surprise to fans expecting the usual streamlined tennis wear.

Instead of a traditional look, Osaka’s walk-on skirt features a voluminous tulle petticoat. Pre-tournament images showed her in a high-shine black bomber jacket with an oversized white bow, complemented by a lighter lime version worn during her first-round match against Jeļena Ostapenko. After removing the jacket to win the match, Osaka’s vibrant green tiered skirt was still adorned with bows—one at the back and two on her sneaker heels.

In a Nike press statement, Osaka shared that her inspiration for the look came from the concept of being a “magical girl” on the court. She described it as a moment of transformation and fun, hoping that her outfit would help others connect with that feeling. Designed by Yoon Ahn for Nike, the frilly, coquettish attire serves as a form of subversive armor for the Japanese star.

Osaka has faced significant challenges since withdrawing from the French Open and Wimbledon in 2021 and exiting the US Open in Round 3. Taking extended breaks for her mental health and to become a mother, she has been candid about her struggles, especially after losing in the Cincinnati Open qualifiers earlier this month. In an Instagram post, she spoke about her difficulties adjusting to her post-baby body and her feeling of being disconnected from her former self.

Despite these challenges, Osaka views the adjustment as a process and remains committed to her comeback. This is her first US Open appearance since 2022.

Ahn revealed that the mood board for Osaka’s outfits was inspired by the “Lolita goth” community—a lacey, anime-inspired style from 1990s Japan that still influences young fashion enthusiasts globally. This style embraces elements like pinks, frills, and bows, celebrating youthful femininity.

In today’s fashion landscape, symbols of girlhood are being celebrated rather than diminished. From the ribbon-laced hiking sneakers in the Sandy Liang x Salomon collaboration to the high-fashion bows of Simone Rocha, Prada, and Chanel, overtly feminine details are now worn with pride.

Osaka herself noted that while she doesn’t usually associate her on-court persona with girlishness, she is drawn to beautiful and cute things. “I think there’s something quite cool in making that an emphasis, especially here in New York,” she said. “In New York, the tennis court is more like a stage.”

Similarly, tulle has recently been embraced in new ways, as seen in Ella Emhoff’s baby blue tulle dress at the Democratic National Convention. Emhoff’s look, alongside Harris’ goddaughter and niece, signifies a modern take on power dressing—one that defies traditional expectations. Osaka’s embrace of tulle reflects this same bold approach.

“We live in a girls’ world, and I wanted to embody that in Naomi’s on-court look,” Ahn stated. Her new Nike Women’s collection, launching soon, extends this idea, encouraging women to express their character and personal style through fashion.

 

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Look of the Week: Ashley Graham Revives DIY Fashion with Chic Shirt Skirt

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Ashley Graham turned heads in New York City with a daring outfit that blended a men’s shirt with a women’s skirt. The model and body activist was seen in a pinstriped, asymmetrical ensemble that looked like an Oxford shirt wrapped around her waist backward, with sleeves flowing as she moved.

 

This striking look is from British streetwear brand Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s summer runway collection. The line features a provocative mix of office wear and loungewear, including shirt-skirts and scalloped boxer shorts. The collection, showcased in London, played with classic textiles in a post-punk style, featuring models with deliberately disheveled hair and dramatic makeup.

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Ashley Graham’s straightforward styling of the shirt-dress highlights the current DIY fashion trend sweeping social media, where repurposed menswear is making a comeback. TikTok users have shared creative tutorials on transforming oversized button-downs into puffball skirts—a trend that mirrors Sienna Miller’s Schiaparelli look from last fall’s Vogue World event, which garnered over a million views. Another popular idea involves buttoning two shirts together and cinching them with a belt to create a quirky maxi skirt.

 

Even top menswear designer Thom Browne has embraced this innovative approach. For his 2022 couture show, Browne turned structured wool coats into calf-length skirts, creating a dramatic hourglass silhouette. In his Fall-Winter 2023 collection, Browne continued to experiment by deconstructing businesswear, combining office shirts and blazers into voluminous skirts, mixing stripe patterns, and finishing the look with a real tie.

 

Ashley Graham isn’t alone in championing the DIY fashion trend. Dua Lipa made waves at Glastonbury with a custom Acne Studios ensemble that blurred the lines between luxury and homemade. Her embellished tank top was creatively folded into a bra for an extreme crop, while her skirt was crafted from a repurposed oversized T-shirt, complete with a visible crew neckline.

Julia Fox also embraces upcycling in her bold fashion choices, from tops made of neckties to a striking low-rise maxi skirt fashioned from 11 pairs of men’s boxer shorts last weekend. This form of scrappy recycling has long been a playground for emerging designers and fashion enthusiasts. In today’s costly economic climate, the return of DIY fashion offers a more accessible and inclusive alternative to high-end luxury trends.

For those inspired by Graham’s innovative shirt-skirt, the DIY aesthetic is not only trendy but also achievable, making it a unique opportunity for fashion lovers to recreate the look at home.

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Internet Erupts Over Mongolia’s Stunning Outfits for Paris 2024 Olympics

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Step aside, Lululemon, Berluti, and Ralph Lauren—Mongolia has claimed the title of favorite national uniform for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics. 

 

The outfits, featuring intricately embroidered vests, pleated robes, and accessories inspired by traditional Mongolian attire, have captivated social media since their unveiling last week.

 

Created by the Ulaanbaatar-based label Michel&Amazonka, these designs aim to showcase the essence of Mongolian tradition and culture through a contemporary lens.

 

The label showcased its stunning designs through a series of polished photos and a video shoot that feels akin to a high-end fashion campaign. Female athletes will don ceremonial earrings and embroidered bags, while male flag-bearers will sport traditional archery hats, belts, and boots.

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The outfits feature the national colors of blue, red, and white, along with various traditional patterns, including the “Soyombo” symbol from the flag. Additionally, motifs inspired by Paris and the Olympics, such as the Eiffel Tower and the Olympic flame, are incorporated.

 

According to the Mongolian National Olympic Committee, each uniform took an average of 20 hours to craft. 

 

Social media, particularly TikTok, has erupted in praise for the designs, with fashion and sports commentators celebrating their beauty. Style writer Ryan Yip remarked in a video that has garnered over 2 million views, “They just won the Olympics before it even started.”

 

In a TikTok video that has amassed nearly 300,000 views, Australian user Bee Jamieson praised the uniforms, stating, “The detailing is really beautiful… it looks like everything’s been really well thought out.” Popular sports creator geoff0w_ echoed the excitement, declaring, “These go ridiculously hard.”

 

On the brand’s Instagram, comments continued to pour in, with one user calling it “the most beautiful uniform so far” and another highlighting the “intricate and beautiful designs.”

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Michel&Amazonka, founded by sisters Michel and Amazonka Choigaalaa, previously created the outfits for the Mongolian team at the Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics and Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics, where the country earned one silver and three bronze medals.

 

Mongolia has been a consistent participant in the Summer Olympics, missing only one since 1964. The nation achieved its first—and only—gold medals in judo and boxing at the Beijing 2008 Games.

 

This year, Mongolia is sending over 30 athletes to the Paris Olympics, set to begin on July 26. Competitors will take part in nine sports, including cycling, shooting, and wrestling.

 

In addition to Mongolia’s stunning uniforms, France’s opening and closing ceremony outfits have been designed by Berluti, while Ralph Lauren continues to dress Team USA, a partnership that has been ongoing since the 2008 Olympics. Great Britain has also enlisted menswear label Ben Sherman for their designs.

 

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Beckhams Rekindle Romance: Iconic Wedding Day Photos Recreated 25 Years On!

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Victoria and David Beckham’s wedding was truly unforgettable. Held at a 15th-century Irish castle just outside Dublin, the theme was Robin Hood, complete with lush decorations. Their cake, an artistic masterpiece by British icon Damien Hirst, featured tiers adorned with fondant leaves and apples, ceremoniously cut with a saber. The couple sat on baroque thrones, a regal touch for their special day. Yet, the most talked-about detail? Their matching purple Antonio Berardi outfits worn at the reception.

 

Since their 1999 wedding, the Beckham union has symbolized the fusion of fashion and football, enduring 25 years. However, reflecting on their big day, the couple admits to minor regrets, particularly about their eggplant-hued attire. ‘I even had a top hat in purple,’ David lamented during a 2017 interview with BBC Radio 4. ‘What was I thinking? I looked like the guys out of “Dumb and Dumber.”

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Victoria Beckham candidly acknowledged her wedding fashion choices, admitting, ‘It seemed like a really good idea at the time.’ Speaking with Jimmy Fallon in 2021, she reflected on their naiveté about fashion back then. ‘We were just having fun with it,’ she said, emphasizing that their approach was about enjoying the moment, which she now views as the essence of the occasion.

 

Today, Victoria and David Beckham celebrated their 25th wedding anniversary by resurrecting their original reception outfits. Sharing nostalgic photos on Instagram, the couple posed proudly in their purple attire in front of their wedding day thrones. “Yep, still got it!” they captioned, marveling at the fact that after a quarter-century, the outfits still fit perfectly.

 

Fans were captivated by the nostalgic fashion throwback. “When people say iconic, this is what they should be referencing,” remarked one admirer. Another chimed in, “Wearing purple on your wedding day. Only the Beckhams could pull that off.”

 

Adding to the enduring charm of the moment, despite twenty-five years having passed, the couple still gaze lovingly into each other’s eyes, exuding a timeless bond.

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Team USA Drops Jaw with Stunning New Olympic Uniforms

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Ralph Lauren’s Legacy: A Decade of Olympic Style Continues with Iconic American Fashion in Paris

Since 2008, Ralph Lauren has curated Team USA’s attire for nine consecutive Olympics and Paralympics, crafting ceremonial uniforms and a versatile capsule wardrobe. This summer in Paris, the brand channels its classic Americana and preppy athleisure aesthetic, drawing inspiration from the city’s vibrancy. The collection, rooted in patriotic hues of red, white, and blue, embodies both style and national pride.

Ralph Lauren Embraces Role as Team USA’s Cultural Ambassador at Olympics

David Lauren, Chief Branding and Innovation Officer of Ralph Lauren, expressed pride in dressing Team USA, emphasizing collaboration with athletes and the Olympic Committee to craft a collection that reflects American values. He highlighted the brand’s ability to capture the essence of American culture, leadership, and sportsmanship on a global stage.

“At the opening ceremony in Paris, Team USA athletes will don iconic navy Ralph Lauren blazers adorned with red and white accents,” Lauren explained. Paired with a striped Oxford shirt, navy knit tie, and tapered light denim jeans, these outfits embody American fashion excellence.”

David Lauren on Ralph Lauren’s Team USA Collection: A Tribute to American Culture and Sportsmanship

In an interview with CNN, David Lauren, Ralph Lauren’s Chief Branding and Innovation Officer, expressed immense pride in outfitting Team USA for the Olympics. He emphasized the close collaboration with athletes and the Olympic Committee to create a collection that embodies the essence of America.

“We want our athletes to represent American culture, leadership, and sportsmanship on the global stage,” Lauren remarked. He credited Ralph Lauren’s ability to translate this ethos into the designs, calling it a realization of the American dream for both the brand and its audience.

Championing American Fashion on the Global Stage

At the Paris opening ceremony, Team USA athletes will make a stylish entrance as they glide down the River Seine towards Trocadéro. They’ll be sporting classic navy Ralph Lauren blazers detailed with red and white, paired elegantly with striped Oxford shirts, navy knit ties, and tapered light denim jeans, embodying a blend of American heritage and contemporary fashion on the global stage.

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BMX racer Kamren Larsen told CNN the uniforms are “a bit of a change” from his usual attire — and racing gear — but “make me feel super dapper.” Richard Phibbs/Courtesy Ralph Lauren

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Four-time Olympian (and winner of 10 medals — seven gold, three silver — across her previous Games) swimmer Katie Ledecky poses in the opening ceremony look. Steven Pan/Courtesy Ralph Lauren

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denim Takes Center Stage in Ralph Lauren’s Closing Ceremony Attire

Ralph Lauren has crafted distinctive ensembles for Team USA’s closing ceremony, featuring a racecar-style jacket adorned with USA patches, complemented by a classic striped polo and crisp white jeans. Paralympic swimmer Jamal Hill, a bronze medalist from the 2020 Tokyo Games, praised the collection for blending classic American style with a contemporary edge. Hill humorously remarked on wearing the ensemble to an ‘all-white party,’ expressing regret that the fashion season for such attire will be ending soon after returning home.

 

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With three Games under his belt already, fencer Daryl Homer told CNN he still treasures pieces from his Olympic debut in 2012. Richard Phibbs/Courtesy Ralph Lauren

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Gymnast Shilese Jones — one of Ralph Lauren’s brand ambassadors at the 2024 Games — is pictured in the closing ceremony look. Richard Phibbs/Courtesy Ralph Lauren

 

 

Team USA’s Flag Bearers to Shine in Custom Ralph Lauren Looks at Olympics

Selected flag bearers for Team USA at the opening and closing ceremonies will sport specially designed versions of Ralph Lauren’s iconic ensembles, tailored in unique colorways for visibility. In addition to these ceremonial outfits, athletes will receive pieces from a commemorative ‘Villagewear’ collection inspired by the Athletes’ Village. This lineup includes classic Ralph Lauren staples like jackets, sweaters, rugby shirts, knits, joggers, and color-blocked tees, alongside a pioneering ‘100% recycled’ polo shirt. Sarah Hirshland, CEO of the US Olympic & Paralympic Committee, praised Ralph Lauren’s designs for capturing American style while fostering unity and inspiring pride among Team USA members and their global fan base.

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Bronze medal-winning Paralympic triathlete Melissa Stockwell also wears pieces from the Villagewear line. John Guerrero/Courtesy Ralph Lauren

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Kiteboarder Daniela Moroz, making her Team USA debut at the Paris Games (as is her sport, in fact). John Guerrero/Courtesy Ralph Lauren

 

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Thom Browne Unveils a Sporty Spectacle in His Latest Couture Collection

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Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 Couture Show Blends Sports and High Fashion in Spectacular Paris Debut

Thom Browne brought his signature theatrical flair to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris for his latest couture show, opening with a striking spectacle: men engaged in a staged tug of war, drawing inspiration from the upcoming Olympic Games. Browne’s narrative intertwined sports motifs with old-world couture and camp aesthetics.

Models evoked classical athletes through exaggerated shoulder lines and cinched waists, challenging traditional gender norms while celebrating vintage sport iconography. The collection featured tennis skirts, dramatic heel-less track boots, and laurel wreath headdresses, alongside whimsical nods to French culture such as hand-painted blue swimming briefs and iconic red bikinis. Browne also adorned jackets and overcoats with beaded ‘tricolore’ lapels, paying homage to France’s rich heritage.

 

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Thom Browne launched his eponymous label in 2001 in New York’s West Village, initially operating by appointment only. Since then, he has garnered acclaim, winning the CFDA Menswear Designer Award multiple times, in 2006, 2012, and 2016. His collections are highly sought-after by celebrities, collectors, and museums alike.

Since 2018, Thom Browne has been part of the Zegna group, who hold a 90% stake. His ready-to-wear line is distributed in over 300 department stores and boutiques across 40 countries, in addition to 110 Thom Browne retail stores worldwide. Browne has described his couture line as complementing his successful commercial ventures, providing a platform to showcase traditional couture techniques while maintaining artistic integrity.

Known for his theatrical presentations, Browne views his shows as opportunities to tell stories and entertain, all while emphasizing meticulously crafted garments. In his own words, “I like to tell a story, I like to entertain, and to ground it in beautifully made clothes.

 

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In a departure from expectations for couture, Thom Browne’s latest collection prominently featured muslin, the humble, lightweight cotton typically used in ateliers for creating initial mock-ups known as ‘toiles.’ According to show notes, muslin served as both the inspiration and the final fabric for many of Browne’s pieces, emphasizing the transformation of a work-in-progress into a couture masterpiece.

Thom Browne employed exposed stitching and ancient techniques like hand-basting in his latest collection to experiment with tailoring and proportions, showcasing his dedication to artisanal craftsmanship and meticulous detailing.

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Celebrity stylist Jared Ellner, known for dressing influencers like Emma Chamberlain and actors such as Molly Gordon, praised Thom Browne for his distinct and boundary-pushing aesthetic. According to Ellner, Browne’s designs are instantly recognizable yet allow individuals like Sabrina Carpenter and Emma Chamberlain to express their unique styles. He noted their penchant for dressing like characters, emphasizing personal individuality.

In an era where subtle nuances often go unnoticed on camera, this ability to celebrate personal style could be considered the epitome of luxury.

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Style Spotlight: Katy Perry Revives the Iconic Naked Dress Trend

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At Place Vendôme in Paris on Sunday, Anna Wintour and her team unveiled the third edition of Vogue World, a lavish tribute to French fashion and sports in anticipation of the upcoming Olympics Games. The event coincided with the city’s prestigious Haute Couture shows, drawing celebrities and high-paying guests who eagerly shelled out thousands for a front-row seat.

The runway spectacle showcased a thematic journey spanning a century from the 1924 Paris Olympics to the present day. Each sport category was paired with its respective era, featuring dancers performing intricate choreography reminiscent of 1960s fencing and 1970s gymnastics, while models elegantly paraded in outfits that mirrored the time periods.

 

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Among the standout moments was Katy Perry, stunning in an archival Noir Kei Ninomiya cut-out gown, representing the 1980s martial arts segment. The ensemble defied expectations with its bold interpretation, contrasting sharply against the backdrop of traditional sportswear like leggings and track shorts.

In a daring departure from conventional couture, Katy Perry graced the event in a meticulously crafted ensemble fashioned from interlocking leather petals, complete with a voluminous tulle-flower skirt. She humorously remarked in an Instagram story before her appearance, ‘It’s the first time I’ve ever walked… I mean, I walk every day in life, but… It’s couture.’

Recently, naked dresses have seen a resurgence in popularity among celebrities. From Elle Fanning, Kim Kardashian, and Doja Cat at the Met Gala, to Charlize Theron, Jennifer Lawrence, and Florence Pugh at the Oscars, stars have embraced this bold style statement. While typical naked dresses often utilize flesh-colored mesh or crystal netting to suggest nudity subtly, Perry’s attire opted for a more avant-garde approach. Her gown revealed more skin than fabric, with leather shapes covering only a fraction of her body.

 

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At Vogue World, Katy Perry wasn’t alone in pushing fashion boundaries. Jared Leto also made a statement with a daring ensemble, arriving in a transparent sleeveless tunic paired with black briefs. His look was accessorized with black patent riding boots, red-dipped fingers, and a necklace featuring a wooden stake-turned-crucifix pendant. While sheer gowns have predominantly been worn by women, Leto’s bold choice exemplifies confidence that transcends gender norms.

 

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