Since its inception in 2011, Lagos Fashion Week has emerged as a biannual highlight on the African fashion calendar, drawing the continent’s leading design houses, prominent sponsors, and an international audience.
In Nigeria, a nation marked by strong religious and conservative values where LGBTQ individuals face severe levels of discrimination and violence, Lagos Fashion Week has stood out as an inclusive platform. It provides space for marginalized communities and innovative brands to gain visibility and amplify their voices.
For over a decade, Orange Culture, a Nigerian label, has challenged norms through provocative runway shows featuring male models in skirts, makeup, and unconventional attire, sparking conversations on gender fluidity in fashion. Similarly, Maxivive, a Lagos-based fashion entity rooted in nonconformity, has garnered attention with its bold, gender-bending collections that explore themes of sexuality and identity season after season.
In recent years, LGBTQ individuals in Nigeria have observed a shift in Lagos Fashion Week’s once-welcoming environment, as the country experiences rising hostility towards non-binary and gay communities.
In 2014, Nigeria, Africa’s most populous nation, implemented the SSMPA law (Same Sex Marriage Prohibition Act), widely criticized internationally for outlawing gay marriage, same-sex relationships, and activities of LGBTQ rights groups. Violators face penalties including lengthy prison sentences of up to 14 years. Activists argue that these attitudes are increasingly influencing even traditionally progressive sectors like the fashion industry in Nigeria.
Kayode Timileyin, founder of Queercity Media and Production, a prominent non-governmental organization advocating for queer rights in Nigeria, also serves as the festival manager for Lagos Pride. According to Timileyin, there is a longstanding pattern of anti-LGBTQ sentiment within Nigeria’s fashion week scene.
In the Spring-Summer 2022 showcase, the late Fola Francis made history as the first transgender model to grace Lagos Fashion Week’s catwalk, appearing for labels Cute-Saint and Fruché. Her participation marked a significant moment for African fashion and the LGBTQ community, although it also stirred controversy. Francis spoke out about facing backlash and noted the absence of her runway images on Lagos Fashion Week’s social media and press releases, prompting criticism. In a subsequent interview with LGBTQ magazine Xtra, she expressed disappointment, saying, ‘I heard Lagos Fashion Week decided not to post any of my pictures or include them in press releases. Why am I not surprised?’
In another incident, Maxivive, known for its avant-garde approach, had its Spring-Summer 2023 show abruptly canceled by organizers shortly before its scheduled date. While founder Papa Oyeyemi declined to comment on the cancellation to CNN, industry discussions suggested the decision was linked to the show being perceived as ‘too gay’ by event organizers.
Discovering the Liberty of Authenticity
Amid mounting societal and legal pressures regarding gender, sexuality, and inclusivity in Nigeria, more fashion labels are opting to showcase their collections through independent, private presentations held off the traditional fashion schedule. This allows them greater freedom to embody their brand ethos away from the spotlight of Lagos Fashion Week.
From brands like Tzar Studios, known for its visually daring contemporary menswear inspired by the metrosexual ethos, to Weiz Dhurm Franklyn’s ready-to-wear collections, these exclusive “invite-only” presentations are organized by designers who carefully select undisclosed venues and invite trusted journalists, influencers, celebrities, and fashion insiders to attend.
Udiahgebi, renowned for its androgynous fashion, has found success in organizing private shows. According to brand creative director Chiemerie Udiahgebi Ugwoke, the house made waves with its debut runway in 2022 by featuring five non-binary models, receiving overwhelmingly positive feedback.
The response following my show was surprisingly positive,” they shared via email. “Considering the societal norms, I anticipated more negative reviews due to the gender-neutral designs featuring transparent fabrics, animal prints, and daring cut-outs.
Aso Nigeria, known for its androgynous and inclusive designs, featured Fola Francis in both a private runway show in December 2022 and a fashion campaign launched in February 2024. Founder Aanuoluwa Ajide-Daniels emphasized that including a trans woman aligns with the core values of the brand, which will continue to prioritize such representation.
“Fashion, to me, is an art that sparks dialogue and challenges perceptions,” commented Kayode Timileyin. “However, in recent years, Lagos Fashion Week has increasingly stifled and restricted these conversations.” While advocating for an inclusive future in African fashion cannot be confined to private settings alone, many designers currently view it as the only essential means to freely express their artistic visions.