Vivienne Westwood Brings Indian Textiles to Life at the Gateway of India in a Stunning Couture Showcase

 Against the majestic backdrop of the Arabian Sea and the historic Gateway of India, British fashion house Vivienne Westwood made a powerful debut on Indian soil this week, unveiling a couture collection rooted in Indian handloom traditions. The show marked a striking confluence of global design and local craftsmanship, with khadi and chanderi—two of India’s most iconic textiles—at the heart of a 60-piece collection that celebrated heritage, sustainability, and innovation.

Hosted in collaboration with the Department of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, and Viz Fashion School Pvt. Ltd., the event drew the city’s elite, along with Bollywood’s fashion-forward stars, to the rain-slicked and scaffold-draped monument. While the temporary construction couldn’t dampen the energy, the weather added an unexpected element to the evening. A passing rain shower misted the audience as they sat in the humid Mumbai air, eager for a glimpse of Vivienne Westwood’s spring/summer 2025 collection.

The collection was a striking blend of textures and silhouettes, honouring Indian heritage while staying true to Westwood’s bold aesthetic. Using khadi—once a symbol of India’s independence movement championed by Mahatma Gandhi—and chanderi silks sourced from Madhya Pradesh, the garments reflected the evolution of Indian textiles. From crisp white muslin to deep violet raw silks and sand-toned Muga, every piece was designed to showcase the soul of the fabric, whether through sharp tailoring, graceful drapes, or dramatic sculpting.

“This show isn’t just about fashion—it’s about philosophy, story, and shared history,” said Carlo D’Amario, CEO of Vivienne Westwood. “Celebrating khadi is like celebrating the spirit of Mahatma Gandhi. In a world chasing artificial change, these fabrics remind us of what’s pure and essential.”

D’Amario, deeply moved by his past travels in India, called the event a dream realised. He had long envisioned staging a show that would connect Westwood’s enduring commitment to craftsmanship with India’s rich textile legacy. The result was a show that fused the ethos of the East with the punk-tinged elegance of the West.

Among the crowd were celebrities who embraced the collection’s eclectic spirit. Kareena Kapoor Khan, Janhvi Kapoor, Bhumi Pednekar, Aditya Roy Kapur, and Manushi Chhillar were among those who dazzled in customised Westwood looks. One of the most striking ensembles of the evening came from Radhika Merchant Ambani, who blended cultures effortlessly by pairing a Westwood archival corset with a bespoke sari. Designer Manish Malhotra, too, showed support by donning the British label.

Behind the collection was a long and intricate journey. According to Dr. Arti Rai, founder and director of Vivz Fashion School, the seeds were planted two years ago during a conversation with D’Amario. “He was very clear: he wanted khadi, and he wanted the Gateway of India,” she shared. The collaboration involved months of engagement with Khadi India, the Khadi board, and Aaranya in Gwalior, ensuring authentic sourcing and direct benefit to artisans.

Vivienne Westwood Brings Indian Textiles to Life at the…

Aaranya’s founder, Maharani Priyadarshini Raje Scindia, played a crucial role in connecting the brand with weavers in Chanderi, helping bridge the gap between centuries-old traditions and contemporary couture. “They didn’t just want the fabric—they wanted the story, the history, the people,” she noted. “There were real conversations, real meetings with artisans. It was about empowerment as much as aesthetics.”

The result was a subdued elegance—cleaner lines, fewer motifs, and natural dyes that allowed the fabric to speak for itself. While chanderi’s delicate weave can be difficult to manipulate, Westwood’s atelier managed to create dramatic gowns inspired by Victorian silhouettes, reshaping Indian textiles into international high fashion.

“It’s not an easy fabric to work with,” Scindia said, “but to see it transformed into structured gowns was eye-opening. The results were both experimental and deeply respectful.”

The absence of creative director Andreas Kronthaler, Westwood’s widower, was felt but not dwelled upon. In many ways, the show was a homage not just to India, but to the legacy of Vivienne Westwood herself—her commitment to sustainability, her rebellion against conformity, and her reverence for heritage.

Kareena Kapoor Khan captured the evening’s sentiment perfectly in her remarks after the show: “Indian craftsmanship has always made waves globally. But to see a brand like Vivienne Westwood come here and not just show, but collaborate meaningfully with our textiles—it’s a very proud moment. This feels like the beginning of something much bigger.”

Indeed, the momentum may just be starting. While Western brands have historically eyed India with cautious curiosity, recent high-profile shows—first Dior, and now Westwood—signal a shift toward more authentic engagement with Indian artistry. However, some experts caution that fashion is still a niche space in India’s luxury market, dominated largely by beauty, fragrances, and accessories.

“India is a growing market, but the footprint for luxury fashion is still small,” noted Pankaj Renjhen, joint managing director at Anarock Retail. “This kind of collaboration is great for storytelling and market testing—but there’s still a long journey ahead.”

Nevertheless, D’Amario remains optimistic. When asked about future plans, he hinted, “This was just the beginning. We need to do something more, together. Very soon.”

And with that, Vivienne Westwood has firmly planted a flag on Indian soil—not just as a guest, but as a brand ready to collaborate, celebrate, and co-create with the subcontinent’s extraordinary textile legacy.