Glenn Martens Appointed as Maison Margiela’s New Creative Director

Belgian designer Glenn Martens has officially been named the new creative director of Maison Margiela, marking a significant shift in the trajectory of the iconic luxury fashion house. This appointment, which follows the departure of John Galliano, ushers in a new era for the brand, known for its avant-garde approach to design, its commitment to deconstructionist aesthetics, and its ability to blur the lines between art and fashion. Martens, renowned for his innovative take on fashion, has consistently impressed the industry with his ability to combine experimental silhouettes with commercial appeal, creating collections that feel both fresh and accessible. His vision and creative direction are seen as a natural next step for a house that has always valued pushing boundaries while maintaining an unmistakable identity.

Martens’ appointment is expected to breathe new life into the storied Maison Margiela legacy, which has been shaped by several legendary designers over the years. This includes Martin Margiela, whose eponymous brand redefined fashion in the late 1980s with its minimalist yet subversive approach, and John Galliano, who transformed the house into one of the most cutting-edge couture labels of the 21st century. Stepping into the role left by Galliano, who had a transformative impact on the house, Martens is expected to honour its avant-garde heritage while steering it toward exciting new horizons. With his extensive experience in both high fashion and commercial luxury, Martens is poised to bring a unique blend of creativity and strategic thinking that will resonate with both fashion insiders and a broader audience.

OTB Chairman Renzo Rosso Expresses Confidence in Martens

Renzo Rosso, the chairman of OTB Group, which owns Maison Margiela, expressed his confidence in Martens’ ability to lead the brand into its next chapter. Rosso praised Martens for his remarkable talent and vision, drawing a parallel between the new creative director and the brand’s founder, Martin Margiela. Rosso emphasised that Martens possesses the same level of artistry and dedication that Margiela had when creating the house. He believes that Martens, like Margiela before him, will continue to honour the house’s deeply rooted legacy while pushing its boundaries and exploring new territories in both fashion and design. In Rosso’s eyes, Martens is more than just a designer—he is a curator who understands the artistry behind fashion, making him the ideal candidate to lead the house into the future.

A Strong Background in Couture and Fashion Innovation

Martens’ career trajectory showcases his deep expertise in couture and his ability to innovate in the fashion world. A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Martens honed his skills under the mentorship of some of the industry’s leading figures, including the legendary Jean Paul Gaultier. His tenure at Y/Project, where he served as creative director for over a decade, was marked by groundbreaking collections that earned critical acclaim and cemented his reputation as a master of both design and conceptual fashion. His work at Y/Project demonstrated his ability to take risks and push the boundaries of traditional fashion, blending avant-garde concepts with accessible, wearable designs. His experience at the helm of such an influential brand makes Martens exceptionally well-suited to take on the creative leadership of Maison Margiela, a brand known for its intellectual approach to fashion.

Revitalizing Diesel: Martens’ Success in Commercial Fashion

Since taking over as creative director at Diesel in 2020, Martens has demonstrated a remarkable ability to reinvigorate the brand and elevate its commercial appeal. Under his leadership, Diesel has seen a significant increase in sales, particularly among Gen Z consumers, who have become a key demographic for the brand. His strategic vision and ability to blend creativity with commercial success have allowed Diesel to reassert itself as a global fashion powerhouse. Martens’ work at Diesel, which includes the successful launch of new product lines and the reinvention of classic Diesel designs, showcases his ability to navigate both the commercial and creative aspects of fashion. This combination of commercial success and creative brilliance made him a top contender for the role at Maison Margiela, a brand that, while firmly rooted in high fashion, also recognises the importance of maintaining a connection to its broader customer base.

Industry Speculation Turns Into Reality

Speculation about Martens’ appointment began circulating after his departure from Y/Project in September 2024. The rumours were further fuelled by comments from Renzo Rosso, who spoke highly of Martens in a recent interview, hinting that the Belgian designer could be the next leader of Maison Margiela. In this interview, Rosso described Martens as “a couturier, not just a designer,” underscoring his belief that Martens has the rare ability to create fashion with true artistic depth. As the rumours continued to swirl, it became increasingly clear that Martens was a perfect fit for the role, with his unique blend of technical expertise and innovative thinking positioning him as a natural successor to Galliano.

Martens Shares His Excitement for the New Role

Upon accepting the role, Martens expressed his gratitude for the opportunity to lead such a prestigious brand. He acknowledged the significant legacy of Maison Margiela, which has inspired designers and artists alike for decades. In a statement, Martens shared his excitement about the challenges and creative possibilities that lie ahead, emphasising that his vision for the brand aligns with the house’s avant-garde spirit. His appointment is seen as a seamless continuation of Margiela’s forward-thinking ethos, and Martens has made it clear that he intends to honour the house’s legacy while pushing its creative boundaries even further.

Maison Margiela’s Legacy and Galliano’s Impact

John Galliano’s tenure at Maison Margiela marked a pivotal moment in the brand’s history. Under Galliano’s direction, Margiela evolved from a radical, minimalist label into one of the most influential couture houses of the 21st century. Galliano’s ability to merge theatricality with the house’s core commitment to craftsmanship transformed the brand, earning it both critical and commercial success. His Margiela Artisanal collections, particularly the Spring 2024 show, garnered worldwide attention and solidified Galliano’s reputation as one of the most visionary designers of his generation. As Martens steps into Galliano’s shoes, he faces the challenge of maintaining the momentum that Galliano built while introducing his own unique perspective to the house.

The Parallels Between Martens and Martin Margiela

The parallels between Martens and the brand’s enigmatic founder, Martin Margiela, are striking. Both men share Belgian roots and graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, where they developed a shared appreciation for deconstructivist fashion. Furthermore, both Martens and Margiela began their careers working for Jean Paul Gaultier—Martens in 2008 and Margiela in 1984. However, where Margiela embraced a reclusive lifestyle, shunning publicity and refusing to take a bow at his shows, Martens has taken a more public approach to discussing his work. This contrast in public personas, while notable, is indicative of the ways in which Martens is poised to evolve the house while respecting the core principles that have made it so influential.

Martens’ Proven Excellence in Couture

Martens’ success is not confined to commercial fashion alone. His guest designer role at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture for Spring/Summer 2022 showcased his ability to craft haute couture collections that are both innovative and technically superb. This experience, combined with his extensive background in ready-to-wear, makes Martens a perfect fit for the Maison Margiela Artisanal collections, which have become a hallmark of high-fashion craftsmanship. His appointment as creative director signals a commitment to continuing the house’s tradition of avant-garde couture while introducing fresh, innovative elements.

A New Era for Maison Margiela Begins

As Glenn Martens assumes the role of creative director, the fashion world eagerly awaits his first collection for Maison Margiela. His appointment signals the beginning of a new era for the brand, one that blends innovation with the rich legacy of avant-garde fashion. With his deep understanding of both couture and commercial fashion, Martens is well-positioned to create collections that challenge conventions and push the boundaries of what fashion can represent. As Martens prepares to take the reins, the industry anticipates that he will continue to elevate Maison Margiela’s reputation as one of the most forward-thinking and exciting houses in luxury fashion.