Dries Van Noten shocked the fashion industry when he revealed he was leaving his position as creative director of the company that carries his name. His final men’s show will be in the fall of 2024 and will take place in Paris in June.
In a letter to journalists, Mr. Van Noten, 65, stated, “My dream was to have a voice in fashion.” “That wish was fulfilled. I want to focus on everything I never had time to do now.
Mr. Van Noten was one of the founding members of the Antwerp Six, a group of Belgian designers that came to Paris in the early 1980s and revolutionized the fashion industry. “I feel it’s time to leave room for a new generation of talents to bring their vision to the brand,” he said in his statement, adding that he had been “preparing for this moment for a while.”
Mr. Van Noten’s decision is noteworthy as a unique instance of a designer giving up control of their initiative while still at the pinnacle of their abilities, in a field where founders frequently hold onto their jobs far into their 80s and hardly consider succession planning. His final women’s presentation, which took place in Paris in late February, was heartfelt, giving an ode to dressing creatively and choosing style over fashion.
However, his approach to business has also been characterized by the thoughtfulness, inventiveness, grace, and attention to detail that characterized his clothing and served as the impetus for a 2014 solo exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris as well as a 2017 documentary about his work.
Since 2018, when he sold the bulk of his company to Puig, a fashion and fragrance company, Mr. Van Noten has been taking measures to secure the future of his 1986-founded brand. He has also committed to continue serving as the company’s chief creative officer and chairman of the board. For a designer who took great satisfaction in his independence, it was a significant move.
He questioned, “Do we have enough heritage?” “Is there a good enough reason for the business to continue after I leave?”
Through its cooperation with Puig, the firm was able to grow its workforce and enter new markets, such as scent and cosmetics. However, Mr. Van Noten can still become frustrated with the industry’s pace even after giving up some control over his company.
“You never can take six months off, or even two months off, after a career of all these years,” he remarked, saying that the longest vacation he had ever taken had been two weeks. “I believe that every designer’s dream is to be able to skip a season at some point.”
He and several designers co-wrote an open letter in 2020, arguing that the seasonal purchasing calendar needed to be fixed for firms to find a more sustainable production rhythm and prevent the vicious loop of deep discounts.
However, he was also aware that a designer may benefit psychologically from the unachievable speed of fashion. When a collection didn’t meet the expectations of reviewers or customers, there was no time to pout. He said to The Times, “You have to move on.” “You must set it aside. You must begin anew. And that is just great, in my opinion. It’s quite addicting, and I believe that’s what keeps me going too.
In his letter, Mr. Van Noten, who was named an Officier de L’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by France, the recipient of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s International Designer of the Year Award, and a baron by the King of Belgium, stated that a new designer would be revealed in “due time.” He said he would still be part of the brand, but he did not say what his role would be.
He is an avid gardener; in fact, the vibrantly colored textiles and styles that became his trademark were inspired by the flowers at his home outside of Antwerp. He frequently goes on garden excursions with Ann Demeulemeester, another Antwerp Six member who withdrew from her line.
Whatever path he decides to take, one thing is for sure: Mr. Van Noten is changing the way departure can appear, just as he and his colleagues once changed the industry’s norms.
