Thom Browne Unveils a Sporty Spectacle in His Latest Couture Collection

Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 Couture Show Blends Sports and High Fashion in Spectacular Paris Debut

Thom Browne brought his signature theatrical flair to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris for his latest couture show, opening with a striking spectacle: men engaged in a staged tug of war, drawing inspiration from the upcoming Olympic Games. Browne’s narrative intertwined sports motifs with old-world couture and camp aesthetics.

Models evoked classical athletes through exaggerated shoulder lines and cinched waists, challenging traditional gender norms while celebrating vintage sport iconography. The collection featured tennis skirts, dramatic heel-less track boots, and laurel wreath headdresses, alongside whimsical nods to French culture such as hand-painted blue swimming briefs and iconic red bikinis. Browne also adorned jackets and overcoats with beaded ‘tricolore’ lapels, paying homage to France’s rich heritage.

Thom Browne launched his eponymous label in 2001 in New York’s West Village, initially operating by appointment only. Since then, he has garnered acclaim, winning the CFDA Menswear Designer Award multiple times, in 2006, 2012, and 2016. His collections are highly sought-after by celebrities, collectors, and museums alike.

Since 2018, Thom Browne has been part of the Zegna group, who hold a 90% stake. His ready-to-wear line is distributed in over 300 department stores and boutiques across 40 countries, in addition to 110 Thom Browne retail stores worldwide. Browne has described his couture line as complementing his successful commercial ventures, providing a platform to showcase traditional couture techniques while maintaining artistic integrity.

Known for his theatrical presentations, Browne views his shows as opportunities to tell stories and entertain, all while emphasizing meticulously crafted garments. In his own words, “I like to tell a story, I like to entertain, and to ground it in beautifully made clothes.

In a departure from expectations for couture, Thom Browne’s latest collection prominently featured muslin, the humble, lightweight cotton typically used in ateliers for creating initial mock-ups known as ‘toiles.’ According to show notes, muslin served as both the inspiration and the final fabric for many of Browne’s pieces, emphasizing the transformation of a work-in-progress into a couture masterpiece.

Thom Browne employed exposed stitching and ancient techniques like hand-basting in his latest collection to experiment with tailoring and proportions, showcasing his dedication to artisanal craftsmanship and meticulous detailing.

Celebrity stylist Jared Ellner, known for dressing influencers like Emma Chamberlain and actors such as Molly Gordon, praised Thom Browne for his distinct and boundary-pushing aesthetic. According to Ellner, Browne’s designs are instantly recognizable yet allow individuals like Sabrina Carpenter and Emma Chamberlain to express their unique styles. He noted their penchant for dressing like characters, emphasizing personal individuality.

In an era where subtle nuances often go unnoticed on camera, this ability to celebrate personal style could be considered the epitome of luxury.